Les Dobbe's photograph of "Kasekuchen" wins top honors in Power Cruising magazine competition

For the complete story about this award-winning photograph of our Selene 53, please visit Selene Florida News.

From Seattle to Fort Lauderdale with Selene

A view of a Selene trawler at sunset (taken during FUBAR ODYSSEY 2007)

It's been almost six months since I've posted anything new to this blog, but I have a very good excuse: In the spring of 2007, Bob and I moved to Fort Lauderdale to represent Selene in their Florida office.

We left "Kasekuchen" on the West Coast, but have been back to spend time on her several times. Recently, "Kasekuchen" participated in the FUBAR ODYSSEY 2007 -- cruising from San Diego to La Paz, Mexico, with a crew that included our son, Chris, and our friend Ron Weed, a Hollywood producer who will be working on the live telecast of "The 65th Annual Golden Globe Awards" scheduled to air on NBC on January 13th.

Later this month, "Kasekuchen" will be loaded aboard a Dockwise ship for its journey through the Panama Canal to our new home base in Florida.

I will be posting to this blog when I have time. Meanwhile, I hope you'll enjoy reading the posts here about our cruising adventures on the West Coast.

Wednesday-Friday, May 31 - June 2, 2006: Warm Springs Bay

We were very excited about Warm Springs Bay. Since we couldn’t stop at Bishop Hot Springs and the weather was wet and rainy, a hot springs was an appealing destination.

It was a beautiful trip. When we arrived at Warm Springs Bay on Baranof Island, the dock was full, so we split up and anchored in each of the two inlets in the Bay. We had the most beautiful anchorage, with a meadow, stream and snow-covered mountain peaks looming above us.

Bob and I took the dinghy over to the hot springs and hiked up a long boardwalk to a muddy, steep trail leading to the rock pools that were indeed filled with scalding water. Our advice was to enjoy the pool closest to the waterfall because the cold water mixes with the hot springs water to provide a comfortable temperature. Unfortunately, the waterfall was running so fast and furious we couldn’t get into that pool. We headed back down to the structure on the bay that had separate rooms with huge cattle troughs and pipes that mixed the water to a perfect temperature. They were private rooms with curtains opening onto the bay and waterfalls. We both enjoyed that wonderful luxury. Bob and I fished that afternoon and caught several rock cod which we split with the Maizels.

The next morning, Bob and Jake decided to fish at the spot where we had caught so many fish the previous day. I couldn’t persuade Susanna to kayak with me, so I headed off by myself and explored the bay. It was so interesting to examine the ruins of buildings and equipment from previous settlements that had hoped to tame this land. I did discover a very large rusted piece of equipment that I eventually determined was an old gas-powered plow. It had to be from the early 1900’s.

This bay also has a very large fishing resort with several boats and cabins. There were a few houses and cabins for rent. A small cafe was scheduled to open the next week or the week after (maybe).

This brings me to the incident that I think has given me writer’s block for the last several months. It is now January 4, 2007, and the incident was June 1, 2006. Several friends have told me to write about this as it would serve as a warning to others to take care.

As I mentioned, I was kayaking alone and had been out for a couple of hours when I came upon an opening to a lagoon. I vaguely remembered Susanna mentioning something about a waterfall, but I hadn’t paid much attention at the time. I was in an adventurous mood and slowly paddled into the narrow opening. I noticed the rapids, but didn’t think much of it until suddenly I was whipped from side to side and spit out into the lagoon. I guess at that point I realized what Suzanne meant by a waterfall.

Only at slack tide is it safe to paddle through. I tried to paddle back out several times but was whipped back into the lagoon each time. It was not a warm, sunny day, but cold and wet. I was dressed for it and did have water and yogurt. I realized no one knew where I was, and hoped my hand held radio would reach Bob. No luck with Bob, but I did reach Suzanne, who passed the message on that I would have to wait for slack tide to get out.

The lagoon was beautiful and a little eerie. I began to wonder what would have happened to me if I had been tossed out of my kayak and had lost the radio. It is impossible to see into the cove from the main bay, and walking out was impossible with the thick woods and cliffs on both sides of the narrow passage. After about two hours, I was starting to get cold. I didn’t want to go on land, because after all this was Baranof Island and there were strange sounds coming from the woods.

I knew that I would never hear the end of it if I asked Bob to come with the dinghy, but I also knew he would love to use all that floating line that he had bought for emergencies like this. So Suzanne passed the message to Bob and Jake to come get me. By that time I could get a little further into the passage, but still couldn’t paddle out. My heroes came to the rescue. Jake fed the line with a buoy attached through the passage, while Bob kept the dinghy from being caught in the tide. I caught the line and was carefully pulled thru. The dinghy ride back to "Kasekuchen" completely chilled me and a hot bath was in order when I arrived.

Hindsight is always very clear and I did put myself in a dangerous situation. Now I always keep my hand held radio around my neck and keep matches and other survival gear with me. The water is so cold in Alaska that hypothermia is a real threat,

By the way, Suzanne’s Indian dinner was fabulous!!

Monday-Wednesday, May 29 – 31, 2006: Wrangell to Petersburg

Another cloudy, rainy day but what a beautiful trip through the “narrows” to Petersburgh. The area and the resorts around the lakes reminded us of our home state, Wisconsin: Beautiful homes and fishing lodges. We got a prime space in the marina with power. "IMB" and "Red October" were there, so we had them along with the Maizels and some new friends, a Petersburgh fishing family, over for dinner. Everyone brought an appetizer to share and we had great conversation and fun.

One of the most memorable things about Petersburgh is the memorial they have erected to honor those from the community lost at sea. It seems every family has lost someone. There was even a whole family who died. It is quite an emotionally memorial.

We left Petersburgh the next morning to continue our journey to Sitka, but we were so impressed with this town that we decided to stop on the way back south.

Sunday, May 28, 2006: Meyers Chuck to Wrangell

After two beautiful, warm, cloudless days, rain and clouds descended upon us as we made our way to Wrangell thru Zimovia Strait. The scenery was lovely, but I guess we were lamenting our rum punch day. Wrangell appeared to be just fishing boats and had very little space for cruisers because the season hadn’t yet opened. The harbormaster found a spot where we could squeeze in together, but it was very shallow. Everyone who came in behind us had to raft to one of the fishing boats, which made it difficult to get off your boat. We chatted with "Uncle Buck," a native Tlingket, who gave us fishing advice for the area. Another guy who was just coming into port on his small fishing boat told us he had broken his back and could no longer fish, but that his daughter just turned 16 and for her birthday he bought her a “permit” (I of course assumed it was a driving permit) and a skiff. It was a commercial fishing “permit” and a small boat. Her first month out she made $2,000. What a great entry into the business world! I immediately thought what a difference there is in the lower 48 when kids turn 16.

We walked thru town looking for a place for dinner and there was very little open. We opted for the hotel restaurant, only to discover after being seated that they didn’t serve wine or beer. We stayed and had an adequate dinner, but wished we had just ordered pizza at the bar above the marina. Everyone had said that it was great pizza. Wrangell didn’t impress us too much, but they did have a clan house and totems right above the marina.

Friday- Saturday, May 26-27, 2006: Yes Bay – Meyers Chuck

Left Yes Bay around 11am to take advantage of the tides. It is one of those beautiful days where the sun makes the light chop on the water sparkle. We had been enjoying the scenery and I was on watch—dodging logs again when a Huge Orca Whale surfaced in front of “Kasekuchen”. The dorsal fin had to be about 6 feet high. He gave us a photo op for about five dives then disappeared. What a sight.!!! Bob made one of his great sandwich creations. Here is the recipe:

Bob’s Salami Snack

2 slices heavy whole grain bread – TOASTED
Spread one slice with cream cheese – butter other
Thinly sliced hard salami (about 6 slices)
Thinly sliced vine ripe tomatoes
Lightly dab with 1000 island dressing
Dust with fresh ground black pepper
Cover all with fresh basil
ENJOY!!!

The world intruded into our little paradise with a beep – signaling cell phone service. Of course we both had lots of messages, mostly about friends who are flying in to visit. Our schedule for visitors is heavy starting in June. We really didn’t know about travel times, weather and the vastness of this land when we left, so we were in the dark about how to schedule visits from family and friends.

A humpback whale made a brief appearance as did two dolphins crisscrossing across our bow.

Made the cut into Meyers Chuck about 4pm right behind a large sailboat. The sailboat took the last place on the public dock so we anchored in the bay with “Amavi” rafted to us. At first glance Meyers Chuck looked very run down with many building falling apart. As we settled into our anchorage and began to look around more, we noticed the newer well kept homes and cabins. Our cruising guide had said that the school was closed as was the art gallery. In this harsh climate buildings do fall apart if not constantly maintained. We had a lovely veal rack dinner with the Hollister’s and watched the sun set. The sunsets are amazing at Meyer’s Chuck and we couldn’t stop taking photo’s.

The next morning the large sailboat left and we moved over to the public dock. These docks are called the Alaskan Marine Highway and the docks are maintained by the state in lieu of roads. “Sonata” came in and tied up in front of us. There is a story about “Sonata” which is really interesting.

Bob and I were in San Francisco in February attending a wedding. We were at the Buena Vista for Irish Coffees. My friend Mallory and I were in the ladies room when two gals came in and we were all commenting on the great weather. We mentioned where we were all from and I said we lived on a boat and were wintering in Friday Harbor. One of the gals said that her sister Diane and her husband Lee lived on a boat in Friday Harbor that Lee had built. They were in the city to celebrate her sister’s 60th birthday and mother’s 80th birthday.. Unfortunately Diane was in the hotel not feeling well so we didn’t meet her. Bob knew the boat they lived on and we meet Diane’s sister, mother and daughter and got the scoop on their boat and cruising plans. Actually, we did not meet them until they tied up at the dock in Meyer’s Chuck. We had e-mailed several times but had never connected in person. So it was fun to tour their beautiful boat and yes I did have “boat envy” of their larger spaces, nice fireplace and especially the “his and hers” set up in the pilot house. But our “Kasekuchen is a great boat and once we are out cruising I am perfectly satisfied with our lovely craft.

The day proved to be the most beautiful weather we had yet encountered. It was sunny and “hot”, about 75 degrees. Several other boats came in and we all started taking tours of each other’s boats The guys ended up sitting in our cockpit drinking rum punches and listening to Jimmy Buffet music. The girls toured all the boats, went for a hike to the beach and visited the little gift gallery. The Maizel’s had invited us and the Hollister’s over to Annaruth for a BBQ. Becky made her famous southern style ribs, Susanna made wonderful salads, Boston Baked Beans (of course), watermelon margaritas, supplied more ribs and a Swedish Ham, and Bob and I supplied Cole slaw (mom’s recipe) and Bob’s famous Berry Tart. Becky and Bob had been listening to Vic on the converted fishing trawler playing the guitar and singing and invited him over for dinner on the condition that he play for us. He was extremely talented and entertained the whole dock. Our new friends Ron and Diane on Rhapsody joined us for dessert. It was truly a day to remember.

We reluctantly left the next morning with the Maizel’s to head for Sitka. The Hollister’s stayed at Meyers Chuck for a few more days and headed to other locations. We will most likely meet up with them toward Juneau. Meyers Chuck was a memorable two days.

Wednesday-Thursday, May 24-25, 2006: Yes Bay, Revillagigedo Island

Completed our tour of Misty Fiords, and decided to spend a night or two at Yes Bay. Bob Hollister wanted to make a stop at Rediscovery Bay, a private resort. Anyway we pulled into this gorgeous harbor and waited while Bob H. talked to the caretaker. He invited us to stop and look around. It is an unusual set up. A boardwalk runs from the water into the National Forest which is public domain but evidently seems to be at least partially kept up by the caretakers of the beautiful property that surrounds the boardwalk. The numerous hot springs that surround this property would be a huge draw to boaters that will go far out of their way for a good soak. As we walk down the boardwalk toward the cove, the most beautiful land unfolds in front of us. A clear rocky stream with deep pools and rushing water cuts through a dense emerald rain forest. The buildings are old and some are falling upon themselves. There are remnants of a resort but this bay has been owned for almost 30 years by Texas businessmen. This is the fourth year that this couple has been caretakers. They are retired and enjoy the incredible beauty of this cove, but are frustrated that they are not given materials to maintain the property. The owners do not put any money into fix up, which we all wonder about. The winter will bring a new caretaker that will probably not see any “Yachties” such as us, but will have a once a week mail plane. The caretakers take an old Chris Craft to Ketchikan for supplies, about a thee hour trip.

We are invited into the main lodge with its log furniture, mounted animals, large commercial kitchen and old photos from the early 1900’s with well dressed couples. Are they at a family reunion, or a company outing or just a week-end away? I wonder if the descendants of these beautiful people know that these photos exist. I yearn to know their stories.

We resume our journey to Yes Bay, where we spend two nights. There is a large fishing lodge at the entrance that is supposed to have a great restaurant, but we are a few days early for the season opening. We wind thru a narrow inlet that opens to a large bowl of a bay and to our delight “Red October” and “IMB” are there. We haven’t seen them since Prince Rupert.

We rafted with the Hollister’s, took down the kayak, set out our crab traps and relaxed with a glass of wine. Dinner aboard “Amavi” was lovely and we played Rubbicube until we all started nodding off.

The next morning I got in the kayak to check our crab pots. I am pretty good at lifting them into the kayak but these were a challenge because they were so full of crabs. I got them back to the boat to the sound of cheers from the gallery. We had 6 large crabs. Then Bob from “Red October” brought some over from his pot as they were leaving and didn’t need any more—so we decided to have steamed crabs for dinner that night. The guys were busy with chores and no one seemed to want to try to hike up to the lake that was supposedly beautiful. It was raining and the trail was muddy and slippery. I set out with my kayak and spent several hours circumnavigating the bay. It was full of tiny inlets and waterfalls. This is my favorite way of exploring our anchorages. I had a seal follow me around to provide great entertainment. Our crab fest that night was delicious and back to rubbicube which I’m getting better at. Tomorrow we head to Meyers Chuck.

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Sunday-Monday, May 21-22, 2006: Ketchikan-Shoalwater Pass, Misty Fjords National Monument

We bid farewell to the Maizel's and the city of Ketchikan. The Maizel's will be staying in Ketchikan for a few extra days as Susanna needs to fly to Washington, D.C. Both Jake and Susanna are renown research scientists and Susanna is scheduled to give a talk. We are hoping to meet up with them in Sitka. We have decided to join the Hollister's (Amavi) on a trip thru Misty Fjords National Monument. The numerous cruise boats that we have encountered since leaving Campbell River are with us again as we start our Misty Fjords journey. Most large ships do not venture into Behm Canal but unload in Ketchikan and local charters take the passengers on a day excursion to tour the highlights in Misty Fjords. Lots of fast boats and float planes. These cruise ships provide needed income to the communities they service and tourism is the third largest revenue source for the state of Alaska. We cruised about five hours and chose a beautiful anchorage in Shoalwater Pass on Winstanley Island. I was feeling very tired and crabby so we did a little fishing, set our crab traps and came back to the boat for a quiet evening alone.

The next morning I checked our traps and we had three very large dungeness. We invited the Hollister's over for a seafood dinner. Bob Hollister was putting a shrimp pot down so we will add that to the feast. The day started off windy and cool, so we stayed in until the wind settled before we went fishing. It turned out to be a beautiful warm day and although we had very little luck with the fish, the scenery was beautiful, lots of coves and a huge rock with many sea lions on it.

When we returned to "Kasekuchen", I took the kayak out to try clamming. I have never clammed before but was told to look for holes in the sand. I think there is more to it than that, e the clams were safe with me looking for them. So we raided our freezer for ling cod, Costco shrimp, our fresh crab and Bob Hollister's two tiny shrimp that added local flavor. But what a feast!!! Bob made fabulous choppino and a rhubarb and berry tart for dessert. We played dominoes that night with the Hollister's and had great fun!!

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Thursday-Saturday, May 18-20, 2006: Ketchikan, Alaska

We are in Alaska!! We have already traveled over 600 nautical miles!!! What an amazing accomplishment. I talked to the harbormaster in Ketchikan and he told us to tie up at Thomas Basin next to the Hollister’s ("Amavi"). The Hollister’s had left Rendezvous the same day we did but were ahead of us going up to Alaska. They were thrilled that we had caught up to them. All the commercial fishing boats were in, so slips were at a premium. We realized that our slip was only for the night, so when we saw a boat leave on the transient dock we slipped over. The Maizel’s had already decided to move the next day if they could get a slip elsewhere with internet and electricity. We had a great get together on “Kasekuchen” with Jake and Susanna and Becky and Bob Hollister, exchanging passage stories and planning our next passage. Bob was exhausted by our long day and early departure—so he went to bed and I tried to find an internet connection.

The next morning Bob and I took down our bikes that we carry, but don’t seem to use much. We figured it was a great town to bike around. We took off to go the 2-3 miles to the Harbormaster’s office to pay. There were three huge cruise ships in port and lots of people and traffic. We had to stay on the road because of all the pedestrians and found out quickly that this was the WILD wilderness, not Boulder, Colorado (bike friendly town). Bob was actually going the speed limit, but a pick up truck almost knocked him off the road, and then a gal leaned out her car window and shouted “just put a sign on your back that says “KILL ME” -- this is Ketchikan. Needless to say we put our bikes up after our ride. The locals say to look three times before you cross the street.

We all decided to go to the Cape Fox Lodge for dinner. There was a delightful tram ride up to the restaurant and the view was magnificent.

This is Bob & Becky Maizel ("Annaruth") and Jake & Susanna Hollister ("Amavi") and Bob & me at Cape Fox for dinner.

The next day we WALKED around town and I rode with Hollister’s in their dinghy to the Safeway to gather a few items that I missed on our bike trip. (see photos) They had gorgeous fruits and veggies and from what the produce manager said—we will not see this selection until we get to Juneau. Bob and I found a great store, Tongass, which had about everything for boats and humans. We planned on leaving in the morning for Misty Fiords National Monument with the Hollister’s.

We spent some time talking to Rory and Marianne, the owners of the beautiful fishing boat next to us. They had lived in the “bush” as they called their homestead about 40 miles from Ketchikan for 30 years. They had built a log cabin, heated it with wood they cut, had a wind generator and no TV. They raised two daughter’s there – one an attorney in L.A. and the other just graduated from CU and has come home to work. They fish for four months a year and make about $90,000. The fisheries are paying $4.00/lb. now for wild salmon and up to $8.00/lb. for kings. Fishing is the 21st century’s “gold rush”. We talked to many young men who had bought a boat and come to Alaska to seek their fortune.

Rory and Marianne were telling us that there has been a grizzly in their area that has done thousands of dollars damage breaking into homes. Marianne happened to be home alone when she heard their front window break. She had left the fireplace burning and a light on to discourage bears but as she descended the stairs with a shot gun and flashlight there was the grizzly-- all 900 lbs. She shown the flashlight in his face and he turned and walked off. When Rory returned he and a neighbor tracked the bear down and shot him several times but the bear lumbered into the woods. These are not woods that you follow a grizzly into. It is a thick rain forest. They figured they killed him but if not there is a very pissed off grizzly out there. I am constantly amazed at the tenacity of these people who live up here. We, who get uneasy when we can’t get cell phone service. What wimps we are.

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Tuesday - Thursday, May 16-18, 2006: Hartley Bay to Prince Rupert

What a wonderful surprise this day has been. After leaving Hartley Bay we ran into some really choppy water at the entrance to Wright Channel. We suffered for a half an hour then it calmed down and we rode a flood tide going north up the Glenville Channel. We were traveling "Mach 2" going over 12 knts for over 4 hours!!! We decided to keep going as this was almost a free ride. It looked like we could make it to Prince Rupert around 80 miles in less than 8 hours!!! Beautiful scenery, an Orca feeding just south of Kennedy Island in Arthus Passage. We pulled into beautiful Prince Rupert and tied up at the yacht club. The motion in the bay was intense and I put out every buoy to keep from smashing into the concrete dock. We decided that we needed to walk on dry land after the long day and get a Guiness at the pub in the harbor. The area is called Cow Bay and is the cruise ship port for Prince Rupert. It is very cute with lots of shops and restaurants. We ate a good dinner at the Breakers Pub with the Maizel’s and realized that it was almost 10 p.m. when we finished. We have so much daylight up here that it is easy to lose track of time.

Next day we walked around Prince Rupert, ran errands to get parts for the boat and stocked up with fresh produce and berries at the local Safeway. I am amazed that I can get all types of berries in Canada. Great lettuce is harder to get than berries. The cruise ships seemed to unload passengers constantly, so the sidewalks were crowded. I had walked up fairly early to the Cow Bay Café to make reservations for that night since the ships were in and was told it may be impossible to get a reservation. We were lucky to get in and had an excellent dinner there with the Maizel’s. Adrianne is the owner/chef and quite accomplished. Off to bed and an early departure for the long trip to Ketchikan across the Dixon Entrance which can be pretty hairy.

Sunday, May 14, 2006 -Mother’s Day: Shearwater to Bottleneck Cove.

Awoke to one of those breathtakingly beautiful mornings. Left Shearwater at 7:15. We were leary of Milbank Sound because the McCloskey’s had written that they had a very rough crossing through there. It was really flat calm. Right at the entrance at 9:10 a grey whale spouted then breached right in front of Maizel’s. What a thrill!!! No one I’ve ever talked to gets tired of seeing whales in the wild.

I decided to make a banana cake for Mother’s Day. As the cake was baking, I made an observation that I really liked calm cruising. I have determined that I can withstand a rough crossing but I really don’t like it. My perfect cruising day is one where we are cruising along and it is calm enough to be baking, or cleaning, or working on my blog.

We arrived at Bottleneck Cove at 1 p.m. We took down the kayak and I peddled over to Maizel’s to get Susanna to kayak with me. She also has a Hobie Mirage (peddle, paddle or sail). They had never had their’s in the water so it was a great thrill for her. We kayaked around this beautiful, calm, secluded cove as the seals watched, rather perplexed, at these creatures paddling quietly in their home.

Susanna in her kayak at Bottleneck Cove

The end of the bay was fed by a lovely stream where we just stopped and listened to the water fall over the rocks. (see photo) Susanna and I lamented on our incredible joy in being there. Bob and Jake took our crab pots out and JP (Maizel’s wonderful Golden Retriever) needed a shore break. Bob announced over the VHF that he was making duck for dinner. That sounded great!!

Chris (my son) called on the SAT phone to wish me a Happy Mother’s Day. I called my mom to wish her one. My sister’s and her had gone to Pine Knoll in Lake Mills for brunch and then shopping. A perfect day for mom. We went to bed very early. A little after 10 p.m. – Kim called and woke me out of a sound sleep. Very unusual for me to be asleep at 10 p. m. She had forgotten that she could get us on the SAT phone. So it was a perfect day in paradise.

Note from the blogmaster: This is a draft. Photos pending.

Saturday, May 13, 2006: Duncanby Landing – Shearwater

Bob had heard how nice Shearwater was and Jake needed a part so we left late (around 10 a.m.) for Shearwater. It was a calm ride, but a long day. I was not feeling particularly great so I slept most of the day. We arrived at 4:30 p.m. It was a very well kept area with lots of newer buildings and a large grocery store/post office. The store was closing at 5 p.m. and the guy there wasn’t really helpful about Jake’s part so we decided to just stay one night and get an early start for Bottleneck Cove.

Friday, May 12, 2006: Port McNeill to Duncanby Landing

Friday morning we left at 6:50 a.m. to cross the straits. The seas started off calm and comfortable, but as we entered Queen Charlotte Sound to the western exposure, we started getting two meter rollers at about an eight second frequency. Nothing dangerous but not comfortable. Bob tacked back and forth to minimize the roll. We were in that slop for several hours. This was definitely not as rough as last year's trip around Vancouver Island--but not fun. We tacked back in toward Table Island where we just had long rollers . We stopped to watch two Orca Whales feeding, our first whales on this trip. I had had enough R&R (rock 'n' roll) and decided we should tie up for the night at Duncanby Landing. It was a beautiful spot with a great marina. Unfortunately it was not fully operational yet, the store had basics and the restaurant was not open. We met two cruisers who had left Port McNeill right before us. Lynne and Bob aboard "Red October" and Jim and Karon aboard "IMB". Their plans seem to pretty much match ours so we may meet up with them during the summer. Bob and I had a great dinner aboard "Annaruth" with the Maizel's and a lovely, quiet night inside the "inside passage".

"Annaruth," "Kasekuchen," "IMB." and Red October at Duncanby Landing

Tuesday-Friday, May 9 - 12, 2006: Campbell River to Port McNeill

The Maizels ("Annaruth") were in Campbell River waiting for us when we arrived with the Hoener’s on Saturday afternoon. We planned on continuing our journey to Alaska with them. We gave ourselves another day to get our e-mail, do any reprovisioning and just rest. Then Monday was rotten weather so we left around 8 a.m. on Tuesday, May 9 to make it through the Seymour Narrows around slack. Our experience from last year led us to take the narrows about an hour early. It was more of an "E" ride than we expected—but it is a wide passage and "Kasekuchen" handled it well.

We waited for Maizels to catch up and had a beautiful clear day to make the long trip to Port McNeill. Got in around 6:30 p.m. Tied up at outer dock across from school bus tie up. The next morning the "bus" came in around 8:30 a.m. and off came 50 or so students from surrounding islands.

The island "bus"

Port McNeil is a pretty good provisioning town with a great gift store and art gallery. I personally think it is an ugly town with old strip malls which make up most of the town, but the residents are friendly and seem happy there. Needed a day to repair some things and wait for perfect weather to cross the Georgia Straits. Unfortunately we missed the "perfect day" on Wednesday, The forecast seemed to indicate an even more "perfect" day on Thursday—so we waited. Thursday turned out to be terrible---so we waited….

Sunday-Sunday, April 30 - May 7, 2006: Roche Harbor to Campbell River, British Columbia

We left Roche Harbor at 9:30 am with "North to Alaska" blaring from our speakers, and waves and cheering from many friends on the dock. It was a heartwarming send-off. Our plan was to head to Victoria to go thru customs and spend the day there walking around that beautiful city with Marilyn and Jim. We had lunch at the Irish Times Pub where we discovered that the Guinness on tap is very medicinal for weary cruisers (see photo of Jim and Marilyn and Guinness on left) We had a magnificent lunch, then stopped by Rebar to have a couple shots of wheat grass to cleanse our system (sounds logical) and of course buy their fabulous pie to take back to the boat. We had a great fast walk along the harbor and then back to the marina to welcome Lori and Jerry Moliter who had just arrived from Rendezvous. A light dinner that night and our first game of dominoes.

Cheryl and Bob at the Irish Times Pub in Victoria

Jim and Marilyn at the Irish Times Pub in Victoria

We left Victoria at 8:20 am Monday May 1 to go to Poet’s Cove. It is a beautiful sheltered area with a magnificent resort. We have heard great reviews on the restaurant and were anxious to try it. Bob and Jim took the dinghy down to set out crab traps. Crabbing is legal all year in Canada and John Youngblood has said that cabbing was good in the bay. The wind picked up and was really blowing all afternoon. The Poet’s Cove Aurora Restaurant is four star and it lived up to it’s reputation. The spa was extremely inviting for a return trip in the winter. We skipped the hot tubs because of exhaustion, us from Rendezvous, the Hoener’s from their long trip from Florida and the three hour time difference. Jim and Bob picked up our crab pots (we got 10) and had an quick game of dominoes and went to bed.

Poet's Cove Resort

Bob dining al fresco during our stay at Melonie Cove

We left Poet’s Cove for Silva Bay at 9:40am. It was a cold and windy trip-- but warm and cozy in the pilot house while we picked crabs for our passage soup. We had a long day of cruising and came into Silva Bay about 3 pm. It is a narrow shallow channel with a sharp turn to port. We tied up to the dock as the wind picked up. After a walk to the new grocery story at the next door Silva Bay Inn (very well stocked) we prepared for one of Bob’s great dinners – veal picatta, onion-carrot sauté and Yukon gold spiced browned potatoes. Bob made a rhubarb-berry tart. We skipped dominoes and had a great night’s sleep. (belch)

We cast off at 9:50am and decided to go to Nanaimo because of the wind and waves on the straits of Georgia. We tied up at the Nanaimo Yacht Club for a $5.00 electrical charge as part of a reciprocal agreement with our yacht club. As we were checking in, the couple at the desk looked familiar and we realized that they had been at Blind Channel resort with us last year. Nick and Sheila were really nice people and Sheila is rear admiral at the yacht club. We all were ready for exercise so we explored the town by foot and fell in love with the old city square. Great little gourmet market and lovely shops. Most of the restaurants recommended did not open until 5:30. We did not want to take the time to get the dinghy down and go the the famous "dinghy dock", so we opted for the modern café which was surprising good. It was such a beautiful day, the walkway along the harbor was filled with walkers, runners, skaters & bicyclists. Another night of dominoes and a wait to see what weather tomorrow brings.

Kasekuchen at Nanaimo

Bob and I woke early 5:30am to a beautiful calm day. We decided to go to Melanie Cove where last June we celebrated Bob’s 60th birthday. We didn’t wake the Hoener’s – just took off. I was so excited to think that we would be in Desolation Sound to fish and kayak for a couple of days. Georgia Straits were flat, the day was sunny and warm and the scenery was spectacular. I compare it with driving on I-70 thru the Rocky Mountains from Denver to Vail – only we are driving on water. Snow capped mountains, dolphins, and beautiful blue sky. There were four sailboats in the bay (I’m sure they hated to see our trawler) but we came in quietly and anchored away from them.

We took down the dinghy and kayaks and Marilyn and I immediately started exploring by kayak. We saw two bald eagles swooping overhead stalking a egret. They made the kill and dragged it ashore to devour. Since eagles are territorial, we surmised these were the same eagles that last year killed a heron in our anchorage.

Marilyn in her kayak

Marilyn and I kayaked to the waterfall and picked oysters from the cold running water. We set out crab traps and Bob and Jim caught a wonderful Ling Cod which Bob cooked for dinner. Parmesan encrusted Ling Cod with spinach orzo and a decadent brownie ala mode for dessert. More dominoes and a late bed time.

Friday was another beautiful day of fishing (more ling cod), no crabs and serene kayaking. We have named the espresso machine "Jimmy the Ling" to immortalize Jim’s fishing prowess in catching ling cod. Jim and Marilyn’s week is almost over and they have decided to stay another day. We have a simple dinner of spaghetti and my special meatballs with bananas foster over pound cake for dessert. We need to leave for Campbell River on Saturday (tomorrow) for them to catch a plane to Vancouver on Sunday.

Our last day in Melanie Cove was cold and rainy. We raised the dinghy and kayaks and left this beautiful area for Campbell River. Our wonderful week with old friends was over, but great memories remain.

Thursday-Sunday, April 27-30, 2006: Rendezvous at Roche Harbor, San Juan Island, Washington

Rendezvous is an annual Selene Trawler event to bring together the Selene owners on the West coast hosted by Friday Harbor Yacht Sales. Last year there were 21 Selene’s at Rendezvous. There were 34 beautiful Selene’s this year at Roche Harbor. With owners, owners awaiting their Selene’s and prospective owners, there were around 200 people attending the Saturday night dinner. It is a great event that allows owners to get to know each other and gives us all a forum to talk “boat” with other cruisers.

We met lots of new owners and loved seeing old friends. The highlight of Rendezvous is the “Trawler Crawl” which is an open “boat” time where we can go thru the boats attending and get ideas for spending more money (just kidding). Howard Chen, the builder, flew over from China and this year brought his parents and brother. It is very interesting to see all the innovations on these boats. Howard is so creative that when he sees a good idea he incorporates it into his new boats. Of course it makes us “old” owners want a new boat that has all the gadgets. We had such a great time at Rendezvous and met so many new people that I know will be part of our boating adventures. It is so inspiring to meet others who love cruising and especially those who are considering this as a live aboard lifestyle.

The classes this year were informative as were the Selene vendors who were there to answer questions on their equipment. Saturday night’s award dinner had great food, and fun awards. Bob received an award for most hours on his engine last year and the fishing award for largest fish caught on the Selene Rally. The award was a mounted singing fish that not only sang but turned it’s head (really funny). Bob wanted to mount it over our bed—but I nixed that. I think it should be a traveling award and presented every year to the fisher person who gets the biggest fish that year.

Our friends Marilyn and Jim from Florida flew in Saturday afternoon and plan on spending the week with us as we start our trip north towards Alaska. We will let them off in Campbell River and then we will meet the Maizel’s (Annaruth) and make our way slowly to Sitka. The Holister’s (Amavi) will be ahead of us but we will try to catch up with them. The McCloskey’s (China Moon) are way ahead and we will try to meet them in Alaska before they head back in June.

And now for something completely different...

We're about to take a trip through time, moving from July 2005 to April 2006 without intermission. The are probably stories to be told about what happened in the ten-month period we're about to pass by, but Cheryl is eager to post more recent information about the journey she and Bob are making to Alaska this summer, so subsequent posts will chronicle that adventure. If and when she writes posts to fill in the gap, we'll backdate those posts so everything on this blog stays in chronological order.

Monday - Tuesday, July 18-19, 2005: Klakish Inlet to Bunsby Islands

We left early around 8 a.m. so that we could get around Brooks Inlet before the wind came up. We had huge seas probably 8-10 feet with a few in the 12 foot range. We were all getting battered around, especially us without stabilizers. Today I was tired and didn’t want these seas. Everyone was very concerned about us. A few times we disappeared into troughs (see photo). The seas flattened out as we entered the passage. I was exhausted by being blown around. But the anchorage was beautiful and I enjoyed the kayaking while Bob enjoyed the fishing. The wind blew somewhat but it was nice to be in an anchorage somewhat protected and not out rolling around. We stayed two nights and enjoyed the area.

Sunday, July 17, 2005: Winter Harbour to Klakish River Inlet

Bob and I and the "Youngblood" decided to leave early to try our hand at trolling for salmon with our "get home" engines. We were inspired by all the fish we saw come into Winter Harbour. We had our downriggers and of course every conceivable lure. After bouncing around for an hour, we decided to forget it and hightail it to Klaskish River Inlet .


Unfortunately, the wind was blowing, the waves were high and we were getting hit on the beam which meant we were rocking sideways. Everyone was concerned for us as we were without stabilizers. Only two boats made this trip without stabilizers. Almost right away, we got the ocean swell. It was much worse than anything encountered so far. A few times we dipped below the waves. I felt it was rather exciting. I had complete confidence in the boat and the motion was very comfortable.

The bay was nicely protected and very pretty. I took out the dinghy and really had a nice trip around the bay. When I arrived back, Brian Calvert came by with a huge halibut. It weighed in at 27 pounds. He went by every boat showing off his prize. Very nice fish. Bob filleted it and we vacuum packed it for him and kept some for dinner.

Saturday, July 16, 2005: Kokwina Cove to Winter Harbour, Quatsino Sound

We tied up to the long dock at Winter Harbour. Winter Harbour was once a commercial fishing outpost with a large cannery. We rafted up at the large public dock and went hiking to discover the town. It is a cute little town with a very nice high school and a large fishing lodge with room for fishing boats and several RV’s with trailers for fishing boats. We saw several boats come in with salmon catches so this area attracts fisherpeople. We all had our picture taken in Coal Harbour in front of whale bones that were reminiscent of whaling days in the 30’s and 40’s.

Had a nice potluck dinner as a farewell for John (from Yachting Magazine) who was leaving the next day on a float plane. John had been staying on "Further" with the Calverts, who are vegetarians, so he loved our potluck (the photo of the potluck was taken by Neil Rabinowitz and also accompany's John's article). Bob and I invited him over for a final breakfast aboard “Kasekuchen” the next morning. Bob made him crab benedict which insured him the name of “SIC” (Selene Iron Chef). The article was to appear in September or October Yachting—but ended up in October Motor Boating Magazine.

Note from the blogmaster: Click HERE to see the online version of "Going Outside: Six new Selene trawlers test the waters of Vancouver Island’s rugged western coast." The article, by John Woolridge, says this about Bob and Cheryl: "They are great cooks and bakers."

Friday, July 15, 2005: Sea Otter Cove to Kokwina Cove, Quatsino Sound

We left Sea Otter Cove around 9 a.am. heading for Quatsino Sound. The weather was beautiful. The boats had to split up as we entered the sound as there was not enough room for six of us in one area. Three boats went to Varney Bay and three of us anchored in Kokwina Cove.

It was peaceful and quiet except for this strange sound and water boiling in a small patch. We discovered a seal was apparantly chasing a school of herring and the herring would leap out of the water causing the water to boil. It was an interesting show.

I got the kayak down and peddled over to Varney Bay to visit the three boats over there, then went around the little island near our boat. It was a beautiful kayaking trip with lots of oysters and clams and eagles.

Bob and John went fishing. Then Bob and I took the dinghy on our own fishing trip and Bob caught a 29 pound chinook. What fun!!! We took it back to Kasekuchen to fillet it – sure that we were the greatest fisherpeople around.

A couple of hours later a canoe comes by with a couple and their three beautiful children asking us if we would like a salmon that their 5 year old son caught on his little Zebco pole. We really didn’t have room for any more—but after talking to them we found out that they were tent camping and were afraid the bears would be attracted to the fish. It turned out to be 32 pounds!!!! Really deflated our egos. Bob kindly filleted the salmon, gave them as much as they could use, and split the rest up between the boats.

We had dinner on "Mystic Moon" with Brad Pilz from Sterling and the Tilden’s. There were seven of us and Mystic Moon’s large table (they are a wide body) was perfect.

The next morning we all met with our dinghies to go up the Marble River. The water was shallow so Bob and I led the pack since we had a depth sounder on our fish finder. John, the writer from Yachting magazine, and Sasha were in kayaks. The scenery was spectacular with high rock walls and beautiful foliage along the shores. We floated back down the rapids and just rafted together and soaked up the SUN on this beautiful day. It was one of those days I’ll always remember.

Thursday, July 14, 2005: Port McNeill to Sea Otter Cove

We left Port McNeill at 4:00am to a beautiful orange sunrise over the mountains on Nigei Island to the east of us on the mainland of British Columbia. I was very nervous as Cape Scott can be very nasty and we did not have stabilizers. We met three more boats at Port McNeill for our journey. We had a writer from Yachting magazine with us for a few days chronicling the first Selene Rally.




We had a smooth ride to the northwest cornor of Vancouver Island and the dreaded Cape Scott. We went between Cox Island and Cape Scott through Scott channel and turned southeast along the Vancouver Island coast. Sea Otter Island has a very shallow entrance with rocks around it. Brian on “Further” (one of the owners of Friday Harbor Yacht Sales) went in first and ran aground (no damage). We all were cautious after that and each found some space in the same area to anchor or tie to buoys. We were tired after getting up at 3:00am to leave at 4 a.m., so we stayed on our boat and went to bed early. The “dreaded” Cape Scott had not been a problem on this day.

Wednesday, July 13, 2005: Port McNeill

We spent the day in Port McNeill, just resting and provisioning. Port McNeil was named after Captain William Henry McNeill of the Hudson Bay Company's SS Beaver, the first steamship on the Pacific Northwest Coast.

Monday - Tuesday, July 11-12, 2005: Kwatsi Bay to Echo Bay

We left Kwatsi Bay at around 9 am for the short trip to Echo Bay with a photo op at Lacey Falls. Yes, that is a beautiful waterfall in back of "Mystic Moon" with the colored rock . Echo Bay has great docks and is a well kept pretty marina with a large general store, good fishing and their breakwater is a part of the old Lake Washington floating bridge. The Richters have the resort for sale along with 25 acres and are anxious to retire. We felt their anxiety to move on -- the resort did not have the welcoming feel of the other resorts we’ve visited.

Across the bay is Windsong, a separate resort, with floating docks, an art gallery/gift shop and some float homes that looked as if they might fall into the bay. We drove our dinghy over to Pierre’s Bay where we were welcomed by owners Pierre and Tove who are a kick. They have a lovely floating resort in a beautiful bay where Pierre has built floating vacation homes for his friends and has room for many boats at his docks. He is famous for his pig roasts in the summer.

We also hiked to Billy Proctor’s museum at the end of Echo Bay. He is quite a famous personality in these parts and has had several books written about his life. Along the path we found the school house and community center both of which are still used by children on the island and others close by. Billy came out to talk to us as we toured his incredibly neat museum. Billy doesn’t throw anything away and his “junk” is an amazing history of the islands. His opium bottle collection was really fascinating as it told a story of the Chinese brought to these islands as cheap labor and the use of opium to keep them docile.

I will not soon forget the stories Billy told us of losing his father when he five years old. His father was the island postman and after one severe storm they found his boat but didn’t find his body until weeks later. His haunting tale of his unique friendship with a humpback whale that ended when a whaler came through one summer dragging the carcasses of his friend and several other whales. His life is chronicled in several books and it was fascinating to meet and talk to a living legend and a stout environmentalist.

We said good-bye to our friends John & Bonnie at Echo Bay and headed to Port McNeill to meet other Selenes for our rally around the west coast of Vancouver Island.

Saturday July 9 - Monday July 11: Kwatsi Bay

We ("Kasekuchen," "Mystic Moon," and "Koinonia") had a great cruise thru Knight Inlet with plenty of dolphins to welcome us into this majestic cove. Kwatsi Bay is a forested bowl of high mountins surrounded by waterfalls. We counted at least 20. The marina is a long float with pretty flowers in pots around the dock. Fresh water to fill our tanks came from the glacier waterfalls. The little store carried lots of great honey from the area and some beautiful local artist creations.

The welcoming committee which was made up of Anca, Max (parents) and Marieka (12) and Russell (10) was warm and welcoming. These people have been in Kwatsi Bay since 1998, carving out a place to live in the “bush” and offering services to passing boaters. We were so impressed by these children who spend the long dark winters here with no television but lots of books and home schooling. They are bright happy kids, extremely knowledgeable in every aspect of their enviroment and amazingly sociable and self sufficient. What a chance these beautiful people are taking in putting lots of money and hard work into this land owned by the crown. The reality is that they can be given 30 days notice to put the land back as it was and vacate. They have petitioned the crown to buy the land but have had no success.

We took their little dingy and hiked to the waterfall with bear and cougar deterrent pepper spray. The waterfall was amazing. The forest was dense with old growth trees, ferns and just enough hanging moss to create a primeval forest. Since it was raining rather heavily, the waterfall was a magnificent torrent of water and crescendo of sound. Mark rowed us back to the dock where Bob and John pulled out the fishing poles and started catching flounder as fast as they could pull them in. I joined them and we soon had plenty for dinner plus some for the freezer. What fun!!!

From left to right: Our friends (and traveling companians) John & Bonnie Jaquet, along with Kathy Youngblood and Max Knierim (proprietor of the floats at Kwatsi Bay)

Every night there is a get-together on the dock where we all bring a snack and meet other cruisers: amazing people from all over the world. We then moved to our boat where Bob made crab stuffed flounder for dinner. The Youngbloods and Tilden’s brought dishes to add to the feast.

Sunday morning was the most beautiful day we have had on this trip. The sun was shining after many days of clouds and rain. We took the dinghy for a tour of the surrounding bays. On our return we spotted our friends Beverly and Mike Anderson aboard “Outward Bound” who had caught up with our group. Bonnie and I took the dinghies down and set out to explore the bay and enjoy this beautiful day. We were joined by Kathy Youngblood, Mike and Beverly, and Mark Tilden.

From left to right: John Youngblood visits with Mike and Beverly aboard "Outward Bound"

It was so amazingly beautiful (see photo of the girl’s kayaking). We watched a bald eagle soar in front of us to pick up a salmon from the water and take it back to a tree to enjoy. What a sight!

From left to right: Beverly, Cheryl, Bonnie, and Kathy

That night was a potluck dinner on the dock with great food and lots of boaters. Bob and Marilyn Hale who write the Waggoner Cruising Guide (our Bible for this trip) had arrived that afternoon, so the conversation became lively on passage information and opinions (after all these are boaters).

The Davis Family Aboard "Kinship" at Kwatsi Bay

"Backloading" Some Posts

Note from the Blogmaster: The three posts that cover the period from July 1-9, 2005 were actually posted on October 23, 2005. However, to maintain the visual continuity of this series of posts describing a journey taken in June and July, I've assigned them post dates that allow all of them to be read without interruption from posts describing more recent events.

Where In the World Is Princess Lousia Inlet?

Notes from the Blogmaster:

Princess Lousia Inlet is in British Columbia, Canada, but as you can see from the map above, it's a challenging location to reach.

In "Log of a Landlubber, writer Erle Stanley Gardner, creator of Perry Mason, shared the same kind of enthusiasm about this place that Cheryl expresses in the previous post:

"There is a calm tranquility which stretches from the smooth surface of the reflecting water straight up into infinity. The deep calm of eternal silences is only disturbed by the muffled roar of throbbing waterfalls as they plunge down from sheer cliffs. There is no scenery in the world that can beat it. Not that I've seen the rest of the world. I don't need to, I've seen Princess Louisa Inlet."

James F. McDonald, who purchased Princess Louisa Inlet in 1927, feared what developers and commercialization might do to the area, so in 1953, he deeded the property to the Princess Louisa International Society, explaining that:

"In giving my Princess Louisa Inlet property to the boating public of the Pacific Northwest, I feel that I am completing a trust. The head of Princess Louisa Inlet is one of the most lovely, outstanding, spectacular beauty spots in the world. It is Yosemite Valley, the Fjords of Norway and many other places all wrought into the background of our conifer forests of the Pacific Northwest."

Princess Louisa Inlet, British Columbia

Cheryl hasn't spent too much time on the blog in the last two months, but she just sent the above photo by email with the following message:

"In Canada-Princess Louisa Inlet is the most beautiful place we have been in our life--so far. Pictures don't do it justice."

Tuesday through Friday, July 6-9, 2005: Broughy Bay - Lagoon Cove

We left Blind channel around 9:30 with a farewell to new friends and a desire to come back before we leave the northwest. The Youngbloods and Tildens had met up with us and enjoyed their short stay at Blind channel where we also met the Davis’s aboard “Kinship”. We had been with the Davis’s when we went to China to see “Kasekuchen” being built. They were with their son and his family visiting from Florida. The three original boats set out for Broughy Bay, a serene passage through a beautiful channel where porpoises ran beside us happilly playing in the wake of our boat. We spotted two bear eating (salmon?) along the shore. We set anchor in Broughy Bay, I took the kayak down and decided to explore the bay and get a little exercise. Bob was doing boat stuff. We watched satellite TV until 11:30 and woke up the next morning to news of the terroist bombing in London. The real world has a way of sneaking into our peaceful lives with all of the technology aboard.

Our destination today is Lagoon Cove where our friends Bonnie & John Jaquet are flying in on a float plan to spend a few days with us. Many of our Colorado friends know Bonnie & John from their years in Vail. We met in 1974 in Vail, Bob was working for Nobel as a salesman. There were not many families there at the time and I met Bonnie at the pirate ship park with her two children Katie and Charlie, who were exactly Chris and Kim’s age. We left Vail after the ski season and moved on to a couple of different states, but we remained friends with the Jaquets and stayed with them on many ski week-ends over the years. They left Colorado in about 1987 to return to John’s hometown of Seattle and started a game business. We were introduced to the Northwest in 1993 when we visited them, and at our kid’s weddings. The float plane was to drop Bonnie and John off at Lagoon Cove. This area is only accessible by float plane or boat. We rounded the corner to the bay and there they were waving at us from the dock.

When we got settled I called Chris on the satellite phone to see if the baby had been born. The due date was July 12, but Kree tends to have babies a little early. Chris was a daddy again -- our granddaughter had been born July 6 and named Calyx Alicia. Two little girls, Cambry and Calyx. He had misplaced our satellite number, as had Kim, so I’m really happy that I called. Wish we were there -- that is our only regret: not being close to the kids.

Lagoon Cove is a party moorage. They are famous for their nightly “happy hour”. Everyone brings a hors d’oeuvre and we get together in this historic “workshop” where we meet cruisers from all over (the photo on the left is of John standing in front of the historic workshop). It is also the best crabbing we have seen. We caught about 60 crabs between our boats and enjoyed a crabfest for Mark and Roseann’s 27th anniversary.

We stayed two nights and bid farewell to a great place and great new friends.

Sunday through Tuesday, July 3-6, 2005: Blind Channel

We were anxious to leave Campbell River and get out of civilization. We headed for Blind Channel, a fairly short cruise but we needed to time our passage thru the rapids as the current can get very rough. I will explain this later as we will encounter this phenomenon with many of our passages.

We turned the corner and a beautiful bay came into view impeccably maintained. This property was bought in the 70’s by Edgar and Annmarie Richter who had a vision to transform a rundown piece of property into something beautiful for the future generations of their family. They put in many years of hard work and raised their family in this beautiful isolated location. Their son is general manager and grandsons have helped work at the resort every summer since they were children. The grandsons spent the early years being home schooled , but their mom would move with the boys to Victoria during the school months to attend public school. Bob and I were amazed at the beautiful artwork on the docks and in the dining room of the resort. Annmarie was an exceptionally talented artist. She had many offers to show her works internationally, but she never wanted to leave her family and her little piece of paradise. Annmarie died in 2003 of cancer, she was in her early 70’s. I felt the enormous loss her death has left in her family and the many friends that visited over the years.

We enjoyed the ambiance of a fabulous German dinner in their gorgeous dining room. Every table has a beautiful water color painted by Annmarie. I also had the freshest most delicious salad I have ever eaten. Their own fresh organic greens, flowers and currants. As we returned to our boat, a pod of orcas were spouting in the bay—WHAT A SIGHT!!! A BEAUTIFUL ENDING TO A GLORIOUS DAY.!

We met some lovely couples in their late 70’s who invited us over to play cards. I am so happy we that we decided to do this cruising thing now. It is so inspiring to see people in their 70’s and 80’s enjoying the cruising life.

Friday - Sunday, July 1-3, 2005: Campbell River

Today is Canada Day, much like our July 4th. There are activities planned at the waterfront park with a band and craft booths. We watched fireworks that night from the flying bridge of our boat. We aren’t missing the festivities of July 4th, just enjoying them a little early in another country.

Saturday morning the Honda repairman did show up to repair the engine on the dinghy. Some cables needed to be replaced and it didn’t cost all that much. It is a little late to leave today so we decided to leave early tomorrow. We were both amazed at the huge ships that were passing by every few hours on their way to Alaska. Campbell River is on the inside passage and our marina was in a great viewing area for the beautiful parade of ships.

Sunday we were ready to leave and discovered that our generator wouldn’t start. Bob tried to troubleshoot with our son Chris, on the phone, but to no avail. We realized that in our file of manuals we didn’t have one for the generator. I got on the Internet to try to find information on the generator but instead found an authorized service center in Campbell River. I called and of course an answering service answered since it was Sunday morning. Almost immediately the manager called us back and had a repairman out within the hour. It was a relatively minor problem but one we probably could not have fixed ourselves. What a learning experience, and great customer service in Canada.


We finally left Campbell River after three nights to head to Blind Channel. It was an overcast chilly day and we waited for slack tide in a beautiful bay watching the seals play and the bald eagles fly overhead. We missed three days with the Tildens and Youngbloods and some spectacular anchorages—but enjoyed our experience in Campbell River and the new people we met. Campbell River was a major logging and fishing port and since logging is gone it has emerged as a major tourist area with great fishing. Because of the mild climate both Canadians and Americans are buying property and retiring here.

Thursday, June 30, 2005: Melanie Cove to Refuge Cove

We left Melanie cove around 11 a.m. on our way to Gorge Harbor. We stopped along the way at Refuge Cove to stock up at the store. We needed to tie up to a dock and have all the guys troubleshoot the dinghy problem and now the windlass. It kept tripping the breaker when we were pulling anchor this morning. Mark was looking for electrical problems with the windlass while Bob and John checked the oil in the gear case and found none. They must have shipped it from China without oil. Bad news -- thank goodness the little store had tubes of oil. Once it was filled, it ran much better. When we get back to Seattle we need to have Sterling check to make sure no permanent damage was done. Unfortunately the transmission cable was broken on the dinghy motor. We needed to get it fixed and the only place to do so was Campbell River, historically renowned as "The Salmon Capital of the World." They had a Honda repair guy there. We headed for Campbell River while the others headed on to Gorge Harbor. We made plans to catch up to them as soon as possible.

We arrived into Campbell River around 3 p.m. but were informed that it was too late for the repairman to make it out. The next day was Canada Day (like our July 4th) so Saturday was the first they could fix it. So we made ourselves comfortable in the really nice marina which was located right behind a shopping area. We found a great restaurant and just enjoyed our forced break.

Wednesday, June 29, 2005: Melanie Cove

Awoke this morning with a terrible screeching noise. Two bald eagles had attacked and killed a blue heron right beside our boat. They dragged the heron to shore where one of the eagles started eating it--feathers flying—while the other eagle sat in a tree on the opposite bank waiting his turn. I took pictures and that is the one posted of the two eagles. The other eagle waited for almost an hour and finally decided it was his turn. They fought over it for a few minutes and the first eagle finally flew away. What a spectacular sight.

Bob & John took the dinghy early to go fishing. Roseanne, Kathy, and I took the kayaks for a long ride around the bay. We got to know each other better and got great exercise. We could get up very close to the marine life in the bays. Our kayaks are very special, we can pedal them like a bike, or paddle like a traditional kayak and even sail them. Roseanne loved using one of ours and put it on her Christmas list.

Our dinghy broke down when the guys were fishing so Kathy and Roseanne drove over to rescue them. Kathy had never driven her dinghy before but did great. Bob needs to fix the dinghy motor before we go much further.

Celebrating Bob's 60th Birthday

Tuesday, June 28, 2005: Melanie Cove: BOB’S 60th BIRTHDAY!!!!

What a special day!!! We could sleep in because we did not have far to go. I made Bob’s favorite breakfast of corned beef hash and poached eggs with crumpets and a birthday candle. Being here on our boat makes this a special birthday for Bob. He really misses the kids and granddaughters, but he is doing his dream.

Melanie Cove was more spectacular than the last one. We anchored right next to a hidden waterfall and could hear the water running. What a great sound for sleeping!!

Mark, Roseanne, Kathy, and John joined us for Bob’s birthday dinner. Mark and Roseanne made a cute picture collage of our trip so far, and Kathy and John brought over a fabulous wine to celebrate with. We had the fresh fish that Bob & John had caught, plus crab that we had caught in our crab traps last night and I made a pineapple upside down cake. We had a great party for Bob’s 60th.

Monday, June 27, 2005: Pender Harbor to Grace Harbor (Desolation Sound)

The cruise from Pender Harbor to Grace Harbor was a long one -- about five hours. It was a little rough but when we reached Desolation Sound the scenery changed to this incredibly stunning series of high mountains winding thru beautiful rock islands. It is like driving thru the Rockies on water. We anchored in this gorgeous bay and immediately put out crab pots with our dinghy.

As a side note: our dinghy sits on top of our boat on the "flying bridge." To get it down we use our crane. There is a learning curve to all this and Bob is very good with it. I, on the other hand need practice. Our kayaks are stored under the dinghy. We had a stainless steel cradle made which stores both.

We all came to our boat for a potluck. Before we started eating, John and Bob started fishing and pulling in one after another fish from the cockpit. Bob used his custom-made cleaning table on our stern to clean and fillet the fish for dinner another night.

Our guests left about 10 p.m. and the bay was like glass. I can’t describe the beauty here.

Sunday, June 26, 2005: Ganges to Pender Harbor

We got underway early -- around 7 a.m. -- and the first bit of travel in the Georgia straits was calm but then the wind picked up along with the swells and the motion. I must say it was quite a ride and I really enjoyed seeing how the boat handled. “Kasekuchen” was awesome, absolutely no creaks or groans just a wonderful motion. Yeah!!! I did not get sick!! The other boats had stabilizers and were using them. I felt extremely proud of myself and Bob was ecstatic that we made it thru in such comfort.

Thursday – Saturday, June 23-24-25, 2005: Friday Harbor to Ganges

Our cruise began at Friday Harbor with John & Kathy Youngblood aboard “Mystic Moon” and Don & Linda Sanborn aboard” Interlude” and our “Kasekuchen." We were all heading for Canadian customs in Bedwell. The day was warm and sunny and the trip took about an hour. We were only allowed two bottles of wine each to be brought into Canada. Kathy & John are Northern California wine collectors and paid duty on their two cases that they brought in, which was hefty but worth the price to have their fabulous wines.

We are officially in the Gulf Islands. We are headed for Ganges on Salt Spring Island where we will stay a couple of nights to wait for our fourth boat, “Koinonia” and Mark & Roseanne Tilden. The day has gotten windy and unfortunately the wind pushed us into the breakwater which had a nice wooden dock with big bolts protruding and our beautiful green hull got it’s first boo -boo. Nothing major, just scratches along the port side.

Ganges is a very pretty small town with some great shops, restaurants, and a hardware store to rival McGuckins in Boulder. We walked around town and shopped at the large grocery store and went to dinner at a great restaurant(Artist’s Bistro

The next morning we enjoyed the bustling Farmer’s Market where there was not as much produce as we expected, but great bakeries, cheeses, and lots of natural products. Bob had his horoscope done, and we both bought Funk hats, which are made on the island by Mr. Funk who raises sheep, spins the wool and creates the hats.

That night we had a progressive dinner aboard the boats, starting with Don & Linda who were anchored out—so we took our dinghies to their boat for appetizers, then back to dock to Mark & Roseanne’s for salad, onward to ours for Bob’s famous prosciutto, brie, and pesto sandwiches and lastly we topped it off at John & Kathy’s for ice cream and chocolates. John is a former Dreyer’s guy and ice cream is a food group for them (both very slim) .We all got to know each other and had a great time. Our departure in the morning had to be early because we needed to get through Active Pass during slack tide at 8 AM.

Linda Sanborn with one of Bob's famous prosciutto sandwiches

Very sad, we had to say good-bye to Don and Linda aboard "Interlude." Don needed to get to Nanaimo to get some business done by fax and internet and Linda needed to fly back home to Las Vegas. Don did some great photography of “Mystic Moon” and “Kasekuchen” cruising in the straights and set it to music. Wow it was awesome! Our time together has been memorable. We plan on meeting them in the fall and cruise together.

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Another Update From the Blogmaster

Cheryl emailed posts for July 13 to 23, 2005 and they have been posted using the date she wrote them, rather than the day they were actually posted (i.e., July 29, 2005). Read, enjoy, and leave your comments.

Cheryl Just Called from Tofino, British Columbia - An Update from the Blogmaster

Cheryl just telephone from Tofino, British Columbia. It's the first time in several weeks she's been able to make contact. She and Bob are continuing their Selene owners cruise around Vancouver Island. She's been writing blog entries, but hasn't had any Internet access. She thinks she may be able to have Internet access on or about August 7th. We'll do our best to get them posted as soon as possible. They'll also be accompanied by more photos. So check back in a week or so -- and in the meantime, register so you can leave comments for her on the blog.

Moma Bear and Two Cubs Eating Clams Along the Shore

Photo Taken 7/23/2005
Camera Model: E775

Fulfilling Our Long Time Dream of Cruising Has Changed All Our Lives -- Especially My Mother's

As I mentioned, my mom stayed most of the trip with our daughter, Kim. My mom was not comfortable on the boat. I think she really wanted to be with her great granddaughter, Madilyn. Mom was recovering from knee surgery and had a setback with extreme hip pain. Her time with Madilyn seemed to lift her spirits. Madilyn had not seen NANA since November and we didn’t think she’d remember her -- but within a day she climbed up on her lap with her books for NANA to read. Mom had been with Madilyn every week since she was just over a month old because we kept her when Kim worked. A little two year-old did more for mom than the doctors and medication.

Our long time dream of cruising has changed our comfortable life but also that of our children, grandchildren, my mom, my sisters, and brother. Mom felt it best to relocate back to Madison when we moved aboard. She had been with us for six years in Denver and was there for the birth of Cambry, our first grandchild and her first great grandchild. My brother Tim and his family were in the Denver area also. We really miss mom -- especially Bob, since she cleaned up after him when he cooked. Those years were precious to us and that is the only downside to our decision. We see Scott, Kim, and Madilyn more often, because they live in Tacoma, but miss Chris, Kree, and Cambry. They visited us in March and stayed on the boat a few nights and then at Kim’s new house. We will see them the end of August (and our new baby granddaughter born July 6). My sisters have taken over watching over mom, which they had been doing for years before she lived with us. She is living in a beautiful retirement apartment building on Madison’s east side. We are so very fortunate that mom is so healthy mentally and physically. She will be 82 in September.

Reflecting on What Happened in June - Part 2

Mom, my sister Betty and niece Lindy were here about 10 days. We met them in Seattle and Betty and Lindy stayed aboard Kasekuchen and mom stayed at Kim’s house in Tacoma. We did touristy stuff around Puget Sound and then took Betty & Lindy on our return trip to Friday Harbor. We had a fabulous trip through the sound and stopped for a night in LaConnor, Washington, a picturesque small town that is famous for its Tulip Festival. in March. We went this year with Bonnie & John Jaquet (Seattle natives who we met in 1974 in Vail). Betty, Lindy and I went window shopping but didn’t have time to spend much money.

We all flew back to Seattle from Friday Harbor on a float plane that we picked up about 100 feet from our boat on our dock. These float planes and ferries are the most convenient forms of transportation from the islands. They are a very fast way to Seattle-three hours by ferry or ½ hour by plane.

Reflecting on What Happened in June - Part 1

June was a busy month with my mom, niece, and sister Betty coming from Madison. As I mentioned earlier, my sister Patti had visited us around Memorial Day and we had cruised with her and my daughter Kim and granddaughter Madilyn to Victoria, British Columbia. As a side note, Kim’s husband Scott took a position in Tacoma, Washington in November, so Kim’s family just moved into their house in March. We enjoyed the first really warm weather since being here in the Northwest that weekend.

Victoria is an absolutely beautiful city with its stately parliamentary buildings and of course the majestic Empress Hotel on the waterfront.


At night the buildings on the waterfront were lit with tiny white lights, which gave it a Disneyland appearance. Butchart Gardens are the most spectacular gardens we’ve ever seen but we did not make it there this trip. We plan on going there when with our next group of friends visit us.

In June I also participated in Landmark Forum. It was an amazing educational weekend that I highly recommend for anyone. They have forum weekends all over the world and I was amazed at the cross section of participants. Major corporations like Nike send their employees. This would have really helped me in my business, I have a much greater understanding of what’s important in life.

Kwatsi Cove