Sunday-Monday, May 21-22, 2006: Ketchikan-Shoalwater Pass, Misty Fjords National Monument

We bid farewell to the Maizel's and the city of Ketchikan. The Maizel's will be staying in Ketchikan for a few extra days as Susanna needs to fly to Washington, D.C. Both Jake and Susanna are renown research scientists and Susanna is scheduled to give a talk. We are hoping to meet up with them in Sitka. We have decided to join the Hollister's (Amavi) on a trip thru Misty Fjords National Monument. The numerous cruise boats that we have encountered since leaving Campbell River are with us again as we start our Misty Fjords journey. Most large ships do not venture into Behm Canal but unload in Ketchikan and local charters take the passengers on a day excursion to tour the highlights in Misty Fjords. Lots of fast boats and float planes. These cruise ships provide needed income to the communities they service and tourism is the third largest revenue source for the state of Alaska. We cruised about five hours and chose a beautiful anchorage in Shoalwater Pass on Winstanley Island. I was feeling very tired and crabby so we did a little fishing, set our crab traps and came back to the boat for a quiet evening alone.

The next morning I checked our traps and we had three very large dungeness. We invited the Hollister's over for a seafood dinner. Bob Hollister was putting a shrimp pot down so we will add that to the feast. The day started off windy and cool, so we stayed in until the wind settled before we went fishing. It turned out to be a beautiful warm day and although we had very little luck with the fish, the scenery was beautiful, lots of coves and a huge rock with many sea lions on it.

When we returned to "Kasekuchen", I took the kayak out to try clamming. I have never clammed before but was told to look for holes in the sand. I think there is more to it than that, e the clams were safe with me looking for them. So we raided our freezer for ling cod, Costco shrimp, our fresh crab and Bob Hollister's two tiny shrimp that added local flavor. But what a feast!!! Bob made fabulous choppino and a rhubarb and berry tart for dessert. We played dominoes that night with the Hollister's and had great fun!!

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Thursday-Saturday, May 18-20, 2006: Ketchikan, Alaska

We are in Alaska!! We have already traveled over 600 nautical miles!!! What an amazing accomplishment. I talked to the harbormaster in Ketchikan and he told us to tie up at Thomas Basin next to the Hollister’s ("Amavi"). The Hollister’s had left Rendezvous the same day we did but were ahead of us going up to Alaska. They were thrilled that we had caught up to them. All the commercial fishing boats were in, so slips were at a premium. We realized that our slip was only for the night, so when we saw a boat leave on the transient dock we slipped over. The Maizel’s had already decided to move the next day if they could get a slip elsewhere with internet and electricity. We had a great get together on “Kasekuchen” with Jake and Susanna and Becky and Bob Hollister, exchanging passage stories and planning our next passage. Bob was exhausted by our long day and early departure—so he went to bed and I tried to find an internet connection.

The next morning Bob and I took down our bikes that we carry, but don’t seem to use much. We figured it was a great town to bike around. We took off to go the 2-3 miles to the Harbormaster’s office to pay. There were three huge cruise ships in port and lots of people and traffic. We had to stay on the road because of all the pedestrians and found out quickly that this was the WILD wilderness, not Boulder, Colorado (bike friendly town). Bob was actually going the speed limit, but a pick up truck almost knocked him off the road, and then a gal leaned out her car window and shouted “just put a sign on your back that says “KILL ME” -- this is Ketchikan. Needless to say we put our bikes up after our ride. The locals say to look three times before you cross the street.

We all decided to go to the Cape Fox Lodge for dinner. There was a delightful tram ride up to the restaurant and the view was magnificent.

This is Bob & Becky Maizel ("Annaruth") and Jake & Susanna Hollister ("Amavi") and Bob & me at Cape Fox for dinner.

The next day we WALKED around town and I rode with Hollister’s in their dinghy to the Safeway to gather a few items that I missed on our bike trip. (see photos) They had gorgeous fruits and veggies and from what the produce manager said—we will not see this selection until we get to Juneau. Bob and I found a great store, Tongass, which had about everything for boats and humans. We planned on leaving in the morning for Misty Fiords National Monument with the Hollister’s.

We spent some time talking to Rory and Marianne, the owners of the beautiful fishing boat next to us. They had lived in the “bush” as they called their homestead about 40 miles from Ketchikan for 30 years. They had built a log cabin, heated it with wood they cut, had a wind generator and no TV. They raised two daughter’s there – one an attorney in L.A. and the other just graduated from CU and has come home to work. They fish for four months a year and make about $90,000. The fisheries are paying $4.00/lb. now for wild salmon and up to $8.00/lb. for kings. Fishing is the 21st century’s “gold rush”. We talked to many young men who had bought a boat and come to Alaska to seek their fortune.

Rory and Marianne were telling us that there has been a grizzly in their area that has done thousands of dollars damage breaking into homes. Marianne happened to be home alone when she heard their front window break. She had left the fireplace burning and a light on to discourage bears but as she descended the stairs with a shot gun and flashlight there was the grizzly-- all 900 lbs. She shown the flashlight in his face and he turned and walked off. When Rory returned he and a neighbor tracked the bear down and shot him several times but the bear lumbered into the woods. These are not woods that you follow a grizzly into. It is a thick rain forest. They figured they killed him but if not there is a very pissed off grizzly out there. I am constantly amazed at the tenacity of these people who live up here. We, who get uneasy when we can’t get cell phone service. What wimps we are.

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending