Sunday-Monday, May 21-22, 2006: Ketchikan-Shoalwater Pass, Misty Fjords National Monument

We bid farewell to the Maizel's and the city of Ketchikan. The Maizel's will be staying in Ketchikan for a few extra days as Susanna needs to fly to Washington, D.C. Both Jake and Susanna are renown research scientists and Susanna is scheduled to give a talk. We are hoping to meet up with them in Sitka. We have decided to join the Hollister's (Amavi) on a trip thru Misty Fjords National Monument. The numerous cruise boats that we have encountered since leaving Campbell River are with us again as we start our Misty Fjords journey. Most large ships do not venture into Behm Canal but unload in Ketchikan and local charters take the passengers on a day excursion to tour the highlights in Misty Fjords. Lots of fast boats and float planes. These cruise ships provide needed income to the communities they service and tourism is the third largest revenue source for the state of Alaska. We cruised about five hours and chose a beautiful anchorage in Shoalwater Pass on Winstanley Island. I was feeling very tired and crabby so we did a little fishing, set our crab traps and came back to the boat for a quiet evening alone.

The next morning I checked our traps and we had three very large dungeness. We invited the Hollister's over for a seafood dinner. Bob Hollister was putting a shrimp pot down so we will add that to the feast. The day started off windy and cool, so we stayed in until the wind settled before we went fishing. It turned out to be a beautiful warm day and although we had very little luck with the fish, the scenery was beautiful, lots of coves and a huge rock with many sea lions on it.

When we returned to "Kasekuchen", I took the kayak out to try clamming. I have never clammed before but was told to look for holes in the sand. I think there is more to it than that, e the clams were safe with me looking for them. So we raided our freezer for ling cod, Costco shrimp, our fresh crab and Bob Hollister's two tiny shrimp that added local flavor. But what a feast!!! Bob made fabulous choppino and a rhubarb and berry tart for dessert. We played dominoes that night with the Hollister's and had great fun!!

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Thursday-Saturday, May 18-20, 2006: Ketchikan, Alaska

We are in Alaska!! We have already traveled over 600 nautical miles!!! What an amazing accomplishment. I talked to the harbormaster in Ketchikan and he told us to tie up at Thomas Basin next to the Hollister’s ("Amavi"). The Hollister’s had left Rendezvous the same day we did but were ahead of us going up to Alaska. They were thrilled that we had caught up to them. All the commercial fishing boats were in, so slips were at a premium. We realized that our slip was only for the night, so when we saw a boat leave on the transient dock we slipped over. The Maizel’s had already decided to move the next day if they could get a slip elsewhere with internet and electricity. We had a great get together on “Kasekuchen” with Jake and Susanna and Becky and Bob Hollister, exchanging passage stories and planning our next passage. Bob was exhausted by our long day and early departure—so he went to bed and I tried to find an internet connection.

The next morning Bob and I took down our bikes that we carry, but don’t seem to use much. We figured it was a great town to bike around. We took off to go the 2-3 miles to the Harbormaster’s office to pay. There were three huge cruise ships in port and lots of people and traffic. We had to stay on the road because of all the pedestrians and found out quickly that this was the WILD wilderness, not Boulder, Colorado (bike friendly town). Bob was actually going the speed limit, but a pick up truck almost knocked him off the road, and then a gal leaned out her car window and shouted “just put a sign on your back that says “KILL ME” -- this is Ketchikan. Needless to say we put our bikes up after our ride. The locals say to look three times before you cross the street.

We all decided to go to the Cape Fox Lodge for dinner. There was a delightful tram ride up to the restaurant and the view was magnificent.

This is Bob & Becky Maizel ("Annaruth") and Jake & Susanna Hollister ("Amavi") and Bob & me at Cape Fox for dinner.

The next day we WALKED around town and I rode with Hollister’s in their dinghy to the Safeway to gather a few items that I missed on our bike trip. (see photos) They had gorgeous fruits and veggies and from what the produce manager said—we will not see this selection until we get to Juneau. Bob and I found a great store, Tongass, which had about everything for boats and humans. We planned on leaving in the morning for Misty Fiords National Monument with the Hollister’s.

We spent some time talking to Rory and Marianne, the owners of the beautiful fishing boat next to us. They had lived in the “bush” as they called their homestead about 40 miles from Ketchikan for 30 years. They had built a log cabin, heated it with wood they cut, had a wind generator and no TV. They raised two daughter’s there – one an attorney in L.A. and the other just graduated from CU and has come home to work. They fish for four months a year and make about $90,000. The fisheries are paying $4.00/lb. now for wild salmon and up to $8.00/lb. for kings. Fishing is the 21st century’s “gold rush”. We talked to many young men who had bought a boat and come to Alaska to seek their fortune.

Rory and Marianne were telling us that there has been a grizzly in their area that has done thousands of dollars damage breaking into homes. Marianne happened to be home alone when she heard their front window break. She had left the fireplace burning and a light on to discourage bears but as she descended the stairs with a shot gun and flashlight there was the grizzly-- all 900 lbs. She shown the flashlight in his face and he turned and walked off. When Rory returned he and a neighbor tracked the bear down and shot him several times but the bear lumbered into the woods. These are not woods that you follow a grizzly into. It is a thick rain forest. They figured they killed him but if not there is a very pissed off grizzly out there. I am constantly amazed at the tenacity of these people who live up here. We, who get uneasy when we can’t get cell phone service. What wimps we are.

Note from the Blogmaster: This is a draft; some photos still pending

Tuesday - Thursday, May 16-18, 2006: Hartley Bay to Prince Rupert

What a wonderful surprise this day has been. After leaving Hartley Bay we ran into some really choppy water at the entrance to Wright Channel. We suffered for a half an hour then it calmed down and we rode a flood tide going north up the Glenville Channel. We were traveling "Mach 2" going over 12 knts for over 4 hours!!! We decided to keep going as this was almost a free ride. It looked like we could make it to Prince Rupert around 80 miles in less than 8 hours!!! Beautiful scenery, an Orca feeding just south of Kennedy Island in Arthus Passage. We pulled into beautiful Prince Rupert and tied up at the yacht club. The motion in the bay was intense and I put out every buoy to keep from smashing into the concrete dock. We decided that we needed to walk on dry land after the long day and get a Guiness at the pub in the harbor. The area is called Cow Bay and is the cruise ship port for Prince Rupert. It is very cute with lots of shops and restaurants. We ate a good dinner at the Breakers Pub with the Maizel’s and realized that it was almost 10 p.m. when we finished. We have so much daylight up here that it is easy to lose track of time.

Next day we walked around Prince Rupert, ran errands to get parts for the boat and stocked up with fresh produce and berries at the local Safeway. I am amazed that I can get all types of berries in Canada. Great lettuce is harder to get than berries. The cruise ships seemed to unload passengers constantly, so the sidewalks were crowded. I had walked up fairly early to the Cow Bay Café to make reservations for that night since the ships were in and was told it may be impossible to get a reservation. We were lucky to get in and had an excellent dinner there with the Maizel’s. Adrianne is the owner/chef and quite accomplished. Off to bed and an early departure for the long trip to Ketchikan across the Dixon Entrance which can be pretty hairy.

Sunday, May 14, 2006 -Mother’s Day: Shearwater to Bottleneck Cove.

Awoke to one of those breathtakingly beautiful mornings. Left Shearwater at 7:15. We were leary of Milbank Sound because the McCloskey’s had written that they had a very rough crossing through there. It was really flat calm. Right at the entrance at 9:10 a grey whale spouted then breached right in front of Maizel’s. What a thrill!!! No one I’ve ever talked to gets tired of seeing whales in the wild.

I decided to make a banana cake for Mother’s Day. As the cake was baking, I made an observation that I really liked calm cruising. I have determined that I can withstand a rough crossing but I really don’t like it. My perfect cruising day is one where we are cruising along and it is calm enough to be baking, or cleaning, or working on my blog.

We arrived at Bottleneck Cove at 1 p.m. We took down the kayak and I peddled over to Maizel’s to get Susanna to kayak with me. She also has a Hobie Mirage (peddle, paddle or sail). They had never had their’s in the water so it was a great thrill for her. We kayaked around this beautiful, calm, secluded cove as the seals watched, rather perplexed, at these creatures paddling quietly in their home.

Susanna in her kayak at Bottleneck Cove

The end of the bay was fed by a lovely stream where we just stopped and listened to the water fall over the rocks. (see photo) Susanna and I lamented on our incredible joy in being there. Bob and Jake took our crab pots out and JP (Maizel’s wonderful Golden Retriever) needed a shore break. Bob announced over the VHF that he was making duck for dinner. That sounded great!!

Chris (my son) called on the SAT phone to wish me a Happy Mother’s Day. I called my mom to wish her one. My sister’s and her had gone to Pine Knoll in Lake Mills for brunch and then shopping. A perfect day for mom. We went to bed very early. A little after 10 p.m. – Kim called and woke me out of a sound sleep. Very unusual for me to be asleep at 10 p. m. She had forgotten that she could get us on the SAT phone. So it was a perfect day in paradise.

Note from the blogmaster: This is a draft. Photos pending.