Wednesday-Friday, May 31 - June 2, 2006: Warm Springs Bay

We were very excited about Warm Springs Bay. Since we couldn’t stop at Bishop Hot Springs and the weather was wet and rainy, a hot springs was an appealing destination.

It was a beautiful trip. When we arrived at Warm Springs Bay on Baranof Island, the dock was full, so we split up and anchored in each of the two inlets in the Bay. We had the most beautiful anchorage, with a meadow, stream and snow-covered mountain peaks looming above us.

Bob and I took the dinghy over to the hot springs and hiked up a long boardwalk to a muddy, steep trail leading to the rock pools that were indeed filled with scalding water. Our advice was to enjoy the pool closest to the waterfall because the cold water mixes with the hot springs water to provide a comfortable temperature. Unfortunately, the waterfall was running so fast and furious we couldn’t get into that pool. We headed back down to the structure on the bay that had separate rooms with huge cattle troughs and pipes that mixed the water to a perfect temperature. They were private rooms with curtains opening onto the bay and waterfalls. We both enjoyed that wonderful luxury. Bob and I fished that afternoon and caught several rock cod which we split with the Maizels.

The next morning, Bob and Jake decided to fish at the spot where we had caught so many fish the previous day. I couldn’t persuade Susanna to kayak with me, so I headed off by myself and explored the bay. It was so interesting to examine the ruins of buildings and equipment from previous settlements that had hoped to tame this land. I did discover a very large rusted piece of equipment that I eventually determined was an old gas-powered plow. It had to be from the early 1900’s.

This bay also has a very large fishing resort with several boats and cabins. There were a few houses and cabins for rent. A small cafe was scheduled to open the next week or the week after (maybe).

This brings me to the incident that I think has given me writer’s block for the last several months. It is now January 4, 2007, and the incident was June 1, 2006. Several friends have told me to write about this as it would serve as a warning to others to take care.

As I mentioned, I was kayaking alone and had been out for a couple of hours when I came upon an opening to a lagoon. I vaguely remembered Susanna mentioning something about a waterfall, but I hadn’t paid much attention at the time. I was in an adventurous mood and slowly paddled into the narrow opening. I noticed the rapids, but didn’t think much of it until suddenly I was whipped from side to side and spit out into the lagoon. I guess at that point I realized what Suzanne meant by a waterfall.

Only at slack tide is it safe to paddle through. I tried to paddle back out several times but was whipped back into the lagoon each time. It was not a warm, sunny day, but cold and wet. I was dressed for it and did have water and yogurt. I realized no one knew where I was, and hoped my hand held radio would reach Bob. No luck with Bob, but I did reach Suzanne, who passed the message on that I would have to wait for slack tide to get out.

The lagoon was beautiful and a little eerie. I began to wonder what would have happened to me if I had been tossed out of my kayak and had lost the radio. It is impossible to see into the cove from the main bay, and walking out was impossible with the thick woods and cliffs on both sides of the narrow passage. After about two hours, I was starting to get cold. I didn’t want to go on land, because after all this was Baranof Island and there were strange sounds coming from the woods.

I knew that I would never hear the end of it if I asked Bob to come with the dinghy, but I also knew he would love to use all that floating line that he had bought for emergencies like this. So Suzanne passed the message to Bob and Jake to come get me. By that time I could get a little further into the passage, but still couldn’t paddle out. My heroes came to the rescue. Jake fed the line with a buoy attached through the passage, while Bob kept the dinghy from being caught in the tide. I caught the line and was carefully pulled thru. The dinghy ride back to "Kasekuchen" completely chilled me and a hot bath was in order when I arrived.

Hindsight is always very clear and I did put myself in a dangerous situation. Now I always keep my hand held radio around my neck and keep matches and other survival gear with me. The water is so cold in Alaska that hypothermia is a real threat,

By the way, Suzanne’s Indian dinner was fabulous!!